Day 29 – June 17, 2025 – Foiano, Italy

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Day 29 – June 17, 2025 – Foiano, Italy

Barbara came and got us about 9:30 am and then drove us to the town of Civita di Bagnoregio, nicknamed the “dying city”. We made a stop before getting to the town, but you can see it from the magnificent views all around.

“Civita di Bagnoregio is a striking hilltop village in central Italy’s Lazio region, often called “the dying city” due to its dramatic erosion and dwindling population. Founded by the Etruscans over 2,500 years ago, Civita sits atop a fragile plateau of volcanic tuff that is constantly being worn away by wind, rain, and seismic activity. The village is accessible only by a long pedestrian bridge, which adds to its charm and sense of isolation.

Despite its precarious position, Civita is renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture, cobblestone streets, and panoramic views of the surrounding Valle dei Calanchi. Its main square, dominated by the Church of San Donato, remains a focal point of local life.”

A couple of different websites I visited said there are only 11 local residents but more come back as seasonal homeowners or caretakers. It was a beautiful little town and so glad we got to visit it.

Our next stop was at the Locanda Palazzone winery in Orvietto. It is a restored medieval farmhouse that also is a boutique hotel. It was built in 1300 to serve pilgrims on the way to Rome’s first jubilee and later fell into disrepair until it was bought in 1969 by the Dubini family and restored. We had a tour of the property and how they make their wine, which is mostly white (yea for me!) and a small amount of Sangiovese as well.

After the tour we were seated outside on a beautifully covered patio with a wonderful breeze as the tasting started. We had three white wines and then the Sangiovese tasting at the end. Our lunch consisted of a starter of baby lentils, salted cod salad, a strip of wild boar and their own cheese. The second course was a pici pasta with a wild boar ragout and dessert was a goat cheese parfait with a wine reduction. (YUMMY!!!)

After a great lunch with great wines, we headed for Orvieto and walked around for about an hour. We grabbed a gelato and then John and I went down the Well of St. Patrick. It is considered a marvel of engineering that was built between 1527 and 1537 and descends about 174 ft into Orvieto’s volcanic tuff and spans over 42 feet wide. It has a double helix staircase, meaning two separate ramps, each with 248 steps (yes, I climbed back up that many!)  and the steps never meet with each other. This allowed “mules to descend with water and ascend with empty vessels without interference”. It has 72 arched windows that create a shadow/light effect as you go down. When we came back out of the well, the weather was taking a turn for the worse with the winds kicking up and big, huge storm clouds so we headed back to the van where Barbara was and headed back to the villa.

We got back to the villa around 6:15 pm and Lorenzo was there waiting for us as he knew the guys planned on cooking the steaks on his grill. He helped get things started and then the guys took over. It took longer than expected and it was kind of trial and error as we didn’t have a meat thermometer, but it turned out great! We also roasted some potatoes and sauteed green beans. For dessert, we bought a small blueberry and apricot tart so split those along with a bottle of tawny port, which I LOVE!

Another long, but fun day and tomorrow we will head to Siena as Catherine and Scott have not been and John and I really liked it. We bought some steak knives while we were there, and we’d like to take them back to see if they can ship them instead of trying to travel around with them. Another wonderful day in Italy – ciao!

Civita di Bagnoregio off in the distance
Our wonderful friends, Scott and Catherine!
The Church of St. Bonaventure in Bagnoregio. St. Bonaventure was a 13th-century Franciscan cardinal and philosopher who was born in Civita di Bagnoregio.
Love this! The pedestrian bridge is the only access point to the village as cars are not allowed inside the city itself. Supplies are brought in using small scooters or carts.
On our way up! The bridge is about 984 feet long and connects Civita di Bagnoregio to the nearby town of Bagnoregio.
Almost to the top!
The main square (Piazza San Donato)
The flowers in the city were gorgeous! And Scott too, lol!
Yes, I found the cat!
In the background is the landscape of the Valle dei Calanchi, the eroded clay hills that surround Civita. The rolling green hills in the distance are the Apennine Mountains.
The Porta Santa Maria, with it’s tall medieval tower that is part of the main gate into Civita. It is the sole surviving gateway into Civita di Bagnoregio.
Lovely couple!
In Orvietto at Locanda Palazzone inside their main building.
Lovely little grapes!
On their porch in the back for our tasting and bites to eat. Scott was ready!
A starter of baby lentils, salted cod salad, a strip of wild boar and their own cheese!
Pici pasta with a wild boar ragout.
Goat cheese parfait with a wine reduction, this was AMAZING!
The Duomo di Orvieto), one of the greatest masterpieces of Gothic architecture in Italy. This place was unbelievable!
The size of the doors are just incredible!
The high altar and apse – what a breathtaking view! The frescoes are from the 14th century and depict scenes from the Life of the Virgin Mary. The stained glass window was created around 1325-1334.
One of the massive striped columns built from alternating layers of black basalt and white travertine. The iron bands were historically used to reinforce the structure and protect it from cracking due to shifting foundations or seismic activity (Umbria is an earthquake-prone region).
A close-up view of the high altar and apse.
Vault frescoes from the Chapel of San Brizio inside the catherdral. The frescoes on the ceilings and walls were begun in 1447, but later completed between 1499-1504. Considered some of the greatest pre-Michelangelo fresco cycles in Italy and were an important influence on the Sistine Chapel.
The grand pipe organ that dates back to the 16th century, though it has been rebuilt and restored multiple times.
One of the side chapels in the cathedral.
The fresco that depicts The Resurrection of the Flesh, part of a bigger fresco, Last Judgment and the End of the World – painted around 1499-1504.
Entrance to the Chapel of San Brizio
A fresco inside the Chapel of San Brizio – on the left is The Preaching of the Antichrist and on the right is The Resurrection of the Flesh.
The gorgeous chapel with the thunder clouds quickly moving in!
Gelato time!
Maurizio Tower located near the Piazza del Duomo. Built in the 13th century.
The Palazzo del Popolo (Palace of the People) – the banners represent the different historical districts. It was built around 1280.
The Church of Our Lady of the Quarry – was built on the site of an ancient Etruscan quarry. Legend says in 1550 while doing quarry work, a sacred image of the Madonna was discovered carved into the rock. This find led to the church’s construction.
Inside St. Patrick’s Well looking up toward the circle of daylight at the top.
As far down in the well as we could go!
That is a nice piece of meat!!!!
Chef’s Scott and John manning the grill.
Scott serving us up and it was yummy!

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