Happy Birthday to me! Another year down and another beautiful day planned in Italy!
We headed out about 10 am to Chiusure, in the commune of Asciano, where we went to the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore. The birth of this monastery is linked to the Sienese nobleman Bernado Tolomei who decided, together with some of his friends, to retire to a hermit’s life in 1313. In 1319 the monastery was officially founded under the Rule of St. Benedict. The abbey complex is a set of buildings erected between the 14th and 18th centuries. Today you can visit the abbey church that has a beautiful inlaid wooden choir, the cloister that has the most extended cycle in the world of the Stories of St. Benedict (frescoes of 1495 and 1505), the refectory, which is still used, the ancient library, the furnishings and instruments of the pharmacy and the cellar. As we came out of the cellar in the herbalist’s shop, there were some monks sampling some of the wines they make out of a wine vending machine! Kevin tried a couple of them, and they were not the best according to him. We still found it amusing that they were shooting the breeze while drinking wine.
After seeing all we wanted to see, we headed to Siena and were able to find parking quickly this time. It was about a 20-minute walk to the restaurant but gave everyone a chance to check things out along the way. We got to the restaurant about 1:30 pm and decided to eat inside as it was very hot outside and there was not much of a breeze at all. We were taken to the coolest part of the place, though it was not as cool as we were expecting and enjoyed a great relaxing lunch. Our guy that normally waits on us was not there, but a couple of the others we recognized were. I had my normal, a Greek salad, while everyone else got pasta. John splurged and had lobster fettucine, and it was fun watching him try to get the meat out of the lobster, lol!!! After lunch we walked around some more and took them to the Il Campo where they had everything blocked off as the Palio is running this Sunday. We were able to find a café to sit inside and ordered an Aperol spritz and some water. We then headed towards our favorite gelato place and ended the trip with that.
As we headed back to the villa, Kevin wanted to stop at the butcher shop again and get a steak that had been aged since December just to compare it to the ones we had a couple of nights ago. Kristen and Vance cooked up some ground sausage and beef, as well as some guanciale and made a great sauce to put on some cooked pasta. The steak was amazing and had a great flavor! We really have been impressed with the meat, as well as the fresh vegetables her.
After dinner and cleaning up, Michelle and I taught Kristen how to play mahjong while the guys hung out for a bit. It was a great day today and tomorrow will be our last trip with Barbara. We head to Assisi for a tour and then a winery for a tasting and light lunch. We are cutting the trip early as John and Vance have to drive the kids back to Florence as they fly home on Saturday. Ciao!
One of the small rural prayer chapels on the abbey’s grounds. The pink plaster is characteristic of the region and fits the 17th-19th century restoration styles. It is called the Cappella della Madonna di Lonigo, because it once housed, or was associated with, a copy of the miraculous image from Lonigo. Love the narrow doors!Taken through the peep hole of the chapel. The Cappella della Santa Croce, that sits on a small rise called Monte Sion. It is said that Emporer Charles V laid down his sword in 1536 before entering the Abbey as an act of humility.The Vasca and the Cappella della Santa Croce in the background.The Abbey in the background as we walked from the wooden path that leads down from the entrance gate. The tall brick structure is the bell tower.Saint Benedict of Nursia – the founder of Western monasticism and spiritual father of the Olivetan order. A Marian grotto, a small outdoor shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Shrines like these are placed along the outer pathways near the abbey, where monks historically walked in silence.The main facade and entrance portal, a classic example of Sienese Gothic brick architecture, built between the 14th and 15 century.Looking down the nave toward the high altar. Although the abbey was founded in 1313 and the exterior is largely Gothic brickwork, the interior was completely renovated in Baroque style between the late 17th and early 18th centuries.Inside the Great Cloister, which is the large enclosed courtyard at the heart of the monastery. It consists of 36 fresco panels, each telling a story from St. Gregory the Great’s Dialogue, which recount the life of St. Benedict. Noted as one of the greatest Renaissance narrative cycles in Italy. The panel on the far left shows Benedict instructing his monks, the panel in the right depicts St. Benedict at the table with his monks and the panel on the right shows a construction scene.The inscription below the fresco reads, “How Benedict leaves his father’s house and goes to study in Rome.” This scene is one of the opening episodes of Benedict’s life.A painted faux window that is framed by medallions of St. Benedict and monks.A grottesca, a highly stylized ornamental design inspired by ancient Roman wall paintings discovered in grottoes. This panel is entirely frescoe and painted to imitate intricate sculptural decoration. These grotesque pilasters were designed to visually separate the narrative scenes of Benedict’s life and create a sense of architectural rhythm around the cloister.“The Miracle of the Collapsed Wall” – Some monks were working on a building project when a wall collapsed, burying one of them under rubble. The monks cried out to St. Benedict, who: rushed to the scene, prayed earnestly miraculously revived the injured monk, saving his life. The fresco depicts both the accident and the miraculous rescue.This scene depicts the shepherds discovering Benedict in his cave. It represents the transition from Benedict’s hidden hermitage to his role as a spiritual guide.There are four corners in the cloister and this is one of the devotional frescoes, the Coronation of the Virgin, that depict major Christian themes.The vaulted ceiling of the Chapter House, located off the Great Cloister. The Chapter House was the place where the monastic community gathered daily, where important decisions were made, rules were read aloud, abbots were elected, and discipline was administered. The iron railings protect the frescoes.Gorgeous piece! An inlaid wood cupboard located in the Old Library. A masterpiece from the 15-16th century.A Renaissance worktable that was taken inside the Old Library. It preserves not only ancient books, but also scientific, artistic, and monastic artifacts. Taken inside the Old Libray and looking out through one of the wooden bookcases toward one of the hallways. LOVE the arched passageway!Down in the cellar where the monks make and store their wine.The monks enjoying their wine!!!!Inside the Abbey Church which shows the main altar, apse and the Baroque dome above it. A panoramic view of the wooden choir stalls inside the Abbey Church. Considered one of the greatest masterpieces of Renaissance woodcarving and inlaid wood in Italy. They were completed around 1503-1505. This piece is just amazing!A side chapel inside the Abbey Church featuring an altarpiece of the Madonna and Child.The Baroque frescoed ceiling inside the Abbey Church. Painted during the 17-18th century Baroque renovation of the church.John had the interesting lunch so had to get a pic of that!!! Yummy!A quick and easy dinner to end the day!
