Day 11 – May 30, 2025 – Siena, Italy – DISCLAIMER – I used ChatGPT (love it!) to help with some of the picture comments as I could not remember everything we did/saw.
We had a quick breakfast as our tour guide was meeting us right outside the gates of our BNB at 9 am. Her name is Anna Piperato, and she is American born (Texas, then raised in Massachusetts), but has lived in Siena since 2011 and is fluent in Italian. She has a PhD in Italian art history and is absolutely amazing!
She took us all through the town of Siena with stops at the Pinacoteca Museum, where she walked us through the centuries of art and how the techniques changed throughout the years. We then headed to the Siena Opera Della Metropolitana, where we first did the Gate of Heaven, which is a tour on the roof of the cathedral. From the website: “It’s as though they were climbing the ladder in Jacob’s dream that reached up to heaven with “the angels of God ascending and descending on it”. She is a plethora of information and while we found it very interesting, it was too much to absorb, so we did the best we could, lol!
It was getting close to 1330, so we decided to grab a bite to eat. We let Anna choose since we were in an area we were unfamiliar with, and I’d rather eat where the locals eat. She chose Taverna Del Capitano, which is a place she has eaten at before, but it had been a long time. I had the “pigeon in jail” which was half a pigeon, yes pigeon (which was very good!) along with potatoes, basically fries. John had the ossobuco with a potato square. The food was amazing! John and I each had a glass of wine, because that’s what you do when you eat in Italy, and then we all had a café at the end. Anna knew of a great gelato place, so we headed there next. She took us to La Vecchia Latteria, where they open at noon because they make their gelato fresh every day. I had pistachio and strawberry and John got coconut. (I already know we will be coming back here tomorrow, lol!) We finished up the tour at the little church right around the corner from our BNB and it just so happened we timed it perfectly as the church was about to open. We got to see the banners from the years the Unicorn contrade won the Palio di Siena, as well as the traditional clothing worn. The flags are hand stitched as well as hand painted. Our BNB is in the Unicorn contrade and Anna lives here in that contrade as well. We hope to see part of the contrade parade tomorrow before we have to leave for the train station. A small synopsis about the Palio di Siena below.
The Palio di Siena is a historic horse race held twice a year, on July 2 and August 16, in Siena, Italy. It dates back to the 17th century and is a major cultural event for the city. The race takes place in the Piazza del Campo, Siena’s central square, which is transformed into a dirt racetrack. Ten horses, each representing one of Siena’s 17 contrade (city districts), compete in the event. Riders race bareback and complete three intense laps around the square, lasting only about 90 seconds. The event is known for its pageantry, including medieval costumes, parades, and flag-throwing ceremonies. Victory is a matter of great pride and rivalry among the contrade. The Palio is not just a race but a symbol of Siena’s heritage, identity, and communal spirit. It attracts thousands of spectators and is broadcast worldwide.
When you walk the streets of Siena, you see different flags flying as well as the contrade tiles on the street corners letting you know you are going from one contade to another. There is definitely a rivalry between them, but some of the contrade do have allies as well. It is a BIG thing here in Siena!
We ended the tour right outside the gates to our BNB and wished Anna farewell. We would definitely do another tour with her when we come back! We relaxed and freshened up a bit, then headed out to find dinner.
Anna suggested a place for us to try so we headed to Dal Vitti for a spritz and then dinner. We had a snack of bruschetta, and I ordered Cinta Senese tagliata (beef) with grilled radicchio and Senese white grape sauce. The meat was so tender, and the radicchio complemented it so well. John had the Senese veal escalope (thin, boneless slice of meat) with tarragon. The food here was excellent and much better than in the Piazza del Campo! Since we had gelato earlier, we decided to skip the dolce and had a limoncello instead. We headed back to the BNB, which was about a 15-minute walk, which is nice after a filling meal, and camped in for the rest of the night. No plans for tomorrow except to visit the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, which is an art museum as well as a panoramic view of Siena. Another great day – ciao!
A beautiful sunrise with a plane flying somewhere.One of the many door pictures I took.The archway going to our BNB; it’s just off to the left past the motorcycles.The church right outside of BNB.It is double gated into where our BNB is. We are standing on the church steps at the moment.Our guide, Anna, showing us the pilgrimage routes to Rome.A gorgeous view of the town.Inside the Pinacoteca Museum. Martyrdom of Saint Catherine of Alexandria.Taken inside the Duomo – The alternating dark greenish-black and white marble stripes are one of the cathedral’s most distinctive features, both on the interior and exterior.This is a photograph of one of the inlaid marble mosaic panels from the floor of the Siena Cathedral (Duomo di Siena), specifically depicting the Cumaean Sibyl (SibyllaCumaea).Part of the “Porta del Cielo” (Gate of Heaven) route, a special tour in the Siena Cathedral that allows visitors to walk above the nave vaults and through the roof structures, offering rare overhead views into the church interior, access to structural galleries that were used only by workers or clergy, and panoramic views from atop the unfinished duomo.The different types of marble used in the duomo.Saint John the Baptist – 15th or early 16th centuryThis is a medieval construction or design sketch drawn directly onto a plaster wall, now protected behind glass. These kinds of drawings are known as “construction guides”, used by master builders and architects during the planning and execution of Gothic cathedrals.This rooftop view from the Siena Cathedral complex looks out over the historic city center toward the tall bell tower of Palazzo Pubblicoin Piazza del Campo, Siena’s iconic main square. This view shows the unfinished facade of Siena’s ambitious 14th-century plan to expand the Duomo into one of the largest churches in the world. Construction was halted by the Black Death in 1348, leaving this dramatic structure as a striking reminder of Siena’s medieval ambitions. Today, visitors can climb to the top for panoramic views over the city and Tuscan countryside.This view captures the richly decorated vaulted ceiling of the Piccolomini Library inside the Siena Cathedral. The ceiling is painted deep blue with golden stars and surrounded by intricate frescoed ribs and heraldic emblems, creating a celestial atmosphere. This view looks into the Chapel of Saint John the Baptist within the Siena Cathedral, featuring a striking coffered ceiling adorned with golden stars on a deep blue background. Below the dome, a frieze of painted sculptures of prophets and saints surrounds the space, creating a celestial and sacred atmosphere. The arched entry is flanked by dark striped columns and a statue of St. Catherine of Siena.This view show the Basilica of San Domenico (also known as Basilica Cateriniana) in Siena, a large Gothic brick church that houses relics of St. Catherine of Siena, one of Italy’s patron saints. Its massive structure and minimalist exterior contrast with the ornate Duomo, reflecting the Dominican order’s austere aesthetic.Taken in portrait mode through one of the little “keyholes” that shows the netting they have draped as there have been small pieces falling from the ceiling.One of the many ornate marble inlays in the cathedral.This inlaid marble panel from the floor of the Siena Cathedral depicts the Hellespontine Sibyl, one of the ten ancient sibyls believed to have prophesied the coming of Christ. She is shown holding a scroll, accompanied by symbolic animals, and surrounded by Latin inscriptions referencing her prophetic role. A marble inlay from the floor of the Siena Cathedral, depicting the She-Wolf of Siena surrounded by the emblems of the city’s allied or rival cities. At the center is the Capitoline Wolf nursing Romulus and Remus, a nod to Siena’s legendary Roman origins. Surrounding her are circular medallions representing cities like Pisa, Pistoia, Perugia, and others, each symbolized by an animal or emblem.This is the Piccolomini Altar inside the Siena Cathedral, a Renaissance masterpiece commissioned by Cardinal Francesco Piccolomini (later Pope Pius III). It features finely carved marble sculptures by Andrea Bregno and includes four statues attributed to young Michelangelo, depicting saints Peter, Paul, Gregory, and Pius. At the center is a revered icon of the Madonna and Child, set beneath a richly decorated shell-shaped niche and framed by classical architectural elements.This view from the apse of the Siena Cathedral showcases the ornate ceiling with a stained glass rose window above, surrounded by gilded cherubs and busts of popes, starting from St. Peter onward. Below, the fresco depicts the Glory of Heaven, filled with angels and saints bathed in divine light.This is the magnificent pulpit of the Siena Cathedral, sculpted by Nicola Pisano between 1265–1268, a masterpiece of Italian Gothic art. Made of Carrara marble and supported by intricately carved columns, it features detailed relief panels depicting scenes from the life of Christ, including the Last Judgment and Nativity. The eagle atop the corner symbolizes St. John the Evangelist, and the pulpit’s elevated design allowed preachers to speak visibly and audibly to the congregation.“Assumption of the Virgin” by Giuseppe Nicola Nasini – this is one of the chapels in the cathedral.The gilded dome of the Chigi Chapel in the Siena Cathedral, designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The coffered dome glows with gold and richly decorated geometric patterns, drawing the eye upward to the oculus filled with a radiant blue sky and golden sunburst. A marble statue of Saint Jerome, located in the Chigi Chapel, sculpted by Giovanni Lorenzo Bernini or one of his followers. It was sculpted 1661–1663.A marble statue of Mary Magdalene in the Chigi Chapel, sculpted by Antonio Raggi, a pupil of Gian Lorenzo Bernini. With her head resting on clasped hands and a jar of ointment at her feet, the figure radiates sorrowful devotion and contemplative grace. It was sculpted around 1663–1665.A marble statue of Saint Jerome that stands in the Chigi Chapel and was sculpted by Gian Lorenzo Bernini between 1661 and 1663. A vibrant fresco, located in the Piccolomini Library of the Siena Cathedral, depicts the coronation of Pope Pius III (Francesco Piccolomini) on October 8, 1503. Painted by Pinturicchio and his workshop, the scene is filled with Renaissance detail, including elaborate costumes, expressive figures, and the prominently enthroned pope under an architectural canopy. It celebrates the Piccolomini family’s power and legacy, aligning artistic grandeur with papal authority.The vaulted ceiling of the Piccolomini Library in the Siena Cathedral, painted by Pinturicchio and his workshop around 1502–1507. Rich with brilliant colors, gilded detail, and classical motifs, the ceiling celebrates the humanist ideals of the Renaissance and honors Pope Pius II, a member of the Piccolomini family. The imagery includes mythological scenes, allegorical figures, and the Piccolomini coat of arms, all surrounded by intricate geometric and floral patterns.The interior of the Piccolomini Library, featuring vivid frescoes by Pinturicchio depicting scenes from the life of Pope Pius II (Enea Silvio Piccolomini). The walls are richly adorned with Renaissance storytelling, while the center holds a classical statue of the Three Graces, surrounded by illuminated choir books. The decorative ceiling and intricate architectural framing make this space one of the cathedral’s most splendid expressions of humanist art and papal legacy.A fresco, located in the Piccolomini Library, depicts Pope Pius II canonizing Saint Catherine of Siena, one of the city’s most revered saints. Painted by Pinturicchio and his workshop, the scene is filled with richly detailed figures, ceremonial robes, and architectural grandeur. One of the choir books in the Piccolomini Library.My “pigeon in jail” and some wonderful potato wedges.John’s ossobuco, bread and potato wedge. The little tavern we ate at.The 17 contradas of the city of Siena.Anna’s suggestion for gelato, which was wonderful. Forgot to take a picture, lol!Love the different fountain heads in the city!Notice the lamps and they depict that we are in the “dolphin” contrada at the moment. A great view of Siena’s historic skyline, with the iconic Torre del Mangia and the Duomo di Siena visible in the background, and taken outside the city walls.Our excellent guide, Anna! She was just amazing!On our way back to where we started the tour, we saw a father with two boys practicing the flags they use during the contrada parades. Another neat door knocker.This fountain cannot be used for water, but you press the tongue down and the water comes out. We love that you have multiple fountains throughout the city where you can refill your water bottles.A banner from the Contrada della Selva (Unicorn), one of the 17 historic districts of Siena, Italy, which compete in the famous Palio di Siena horse race. The flag features a rearing unicorn on a shield with the Latin inscription “Humberti Regis Gratia” (“By the Grace of King Umberto”), likely referencing royal patronage. The orange and white background with large polka dots is distinctive of the Selva contrada’s heraldic design.A display of Palio di Siena banners (Drappelloni)—elaborately painted silk standards awarded to the winning contrada (district) in Siena’s historic horse race. Each banner features religious, civic, and heraldic imagery, including the Virgin Mary, Siena’s protectress, and symbols of participating contrade. The saddle in front is part of the race tradition, emphasizing the Palio’s blend of art, faith, and fierce local rivalry.The ceremonial attire and a drum from the Contrada della Selva (Unicorn), one of Siena’s historic districts that competes in the Palio di Siena. The orange and white costume and unicorn-emblazoned drum reflect the contrada’s colors and emblem, used in processions and flag-throwing performances. These garments celebrate Selva’s identity and deep-rooted traditions within Siena’s civic and cultural life.The oratory of the Contrada della Selva (Forest) in Siena, richly decorated with Baroque altarpieces, woodwork, and the district’s distinctive orange-and-white polka-dot flags. The oratory serves as the spiritual home of the Selva contrada, housing its sacred symbols, banners, and Palio memorabilia. Anna’s dinner suggestion.Nice little place tucked away from the crowd. I started with an Aperol Spritz and John had the Negroni Spritz. My tender beef with grilled radicchio.Senese veal with tarragon.Limoncello for dessert!So in the states, we pay about $25-30 for a bottle of this!!!!!! Even more if you get it in a restaurant.A beautiful sunset in Siena!
